Florence to the Amalfi Coast

22-24 October 2009

Early start to catch the train to Naples the next moring. Having discovered that there are few straightforward ways to get to the Amalfi Coast at this time of year, we'd decided to lash out on a pre-booked taxi rather than brave the local train from Naples, then the local bus and a walk up 200 steps in the rain to our accommodation with our luggage (which has been slowly getting heavier and bulkier...)

This was a mixed blessing. As we arrived in Naples, the rain swelled into a thunderstorm that created even worse havoc of Naples' already murderous traffic, forcing our taxi driver, Mr Giovanni, into some creative solutions (wrong way into a roundabout? 'No polizia around!' so it's all okay!). The storm also created deep washes of water across the road on Amalfi Drive, the famous coast road that winds along the cliff from Sorrento to Positano, Praiano (where we stayed) and Amalfi - probably lucky it was too foggy to see the drop off the side of the road...

More rain and wind the next day, so it was hard to explore as much as we wanted to, though we ventured out via the local Sita bus - an experience in itself - to Positano and Amalfi. We'd love to see them both in the sunshine - similar to the Cinque Terre in the way the villages cling to the cliffs, but even more dramatic and precarious.

Positano

Above all taken in Amalfi (including antique shop door...)

Minor adventure returning from Amalfi in the late afternoon as our bus driver slammed on the brakes, threw open the doors and dashed outside to the back of the bus, leaving his dozen or so passengers sitting in the bus wondering what on earth was going on. Turned out he was madly spraying the engine with a fire extinguisher, so we beat a hasty retreat and walked the remaining kilometre or so home. We thought the trudge up the hill in drizzling darkness, with 200 steps at the end up to our accommodation, deserved a decent reward!

Above 3 all taken from the terrace of our room, looking out over the Mediterranean

Mud slides on the road to Sorrento put paid to our plans for a day at Pompeii on Saturday, even though the weather started out sunny, so we decided to take advantage of the sun and walk to Positano on the Footpath of the Gods. Unfortunately I misunderstood the directions we were given, thinking that the '1000 steps' described meant a kilometre or so. Actually, it meant 1000 steps straight up the cliff, with another couple of kilometres rough walking along the cliff top, and a whole lot more steps down. Having made it to the end (with the help of Nando, our guardian dog-friend, who accompanied us the whole way), we can now say it was worth it for the stunning views, though we may not do it again when we return for another visit ;>

View from the Footpath of the Gods

The Amalfi Coast was an amazing place to visit. It was also challenging to get to and get around, endlessly fascinating with its chaotic traffic and houses in impossible positions overlooking the sea - and well worth the effort.